Three wheelbuilding tips

Three wheelbuilding tips that are often overlooked:

(1) Set spoke elbows
Spokes will give maximum service life and strength if the elbow is firmly set against the hub flange during building. If not, spokes may appear to "loosen up" and their fatigue life may decrease, resulting in premature breakage. When a spoke is set loosely into a hub, it should lie about 15 deg. above the angle directly to the target rim hole. That's the amount that the spoke will need to be bent to conform to its position.

When designing a spoke there are two factors to consider: 1) strength, meaning reliability and fatigue life, and 2) hub fit. Unfortunately, some shapes that seem to improve hub fit can actually decrease strength and fatigue life. Therefore, there must be a compromise in the final spoke design to account for these two factors.

The spoke design is complicated by the fact that many hubs have different shapes and proportions. More importantly, even if all hubs were identical, there would still be two different ideal spoke shapes. The spoke whose elbow is on the inside of the flange would require a different shape from the spoke whose elbow is on the outside. The best compromise is a spoke whose elbow bend is "incomplete," creating the 15 deg angle mentioned above. This is best because spokes that are "overbent" compared to the hub fit, whose elbows are being opened out in the finished wheel, are more prone to fatigue failure. The secret is within the metal crystal structure, but well known to material science.

If a spoke does not fit a particular hub perfectly (ie. does not lie flat against the flange and aim directly at the rim), it can be "set" during the building process. If the spokes are not set, then the spokes will be held in place (partially set) by tension alone. But they will not fully conform to the hub flange. With full tension, the spokes will be flat against the flange but as the wheel is ridden, normal fluctuations in spoke tension will cause the spokes to flex at the elbow. This will shorten their fatigue life, resulting in breakage.

To set spoke elbows, try the smooth shaft of a screwdriver in the opening between two crossed spokes against the edge of the flange, over the outside spoke, under the inside spoke. Gently lever down to set both inside and outside elbows at the same time. With practice, this process will take only a few seconds.


(2) Prevent spoke loosening
Nipples can loosen from the vibration caused by regular hard riding. This is a more common problem with lighter rims, smaller and higher pressure tires, and rough roads or trails. Nipple loosening is an even more common problem in because the hollow section of modern rims prevents the inner tube or rim strip from pressing against the nipple head and holding it in place.

Building with high uniform spoke tension helps because any one spoke is less likely to reach very low tension during riding, and that is when loosening from vibration is most likely to occur. But this alone is not enough. If you imagine unwinding the threads inside the nipple you essentially have a long ramp at a slight angle. The tension on the spoke is constantly trying to pull the spoke down this ramp inside the nipple.

One answer is to use a mild thread locking compound. Wheelsmith SpokePrep™ is one such solution because it provides both lubrication and thread locking action. The locking action is just like the nylon ring in a locking nut (also called aircraft or nylok nuts). Since it is not an adhesive, future adjustments are easier and will not destroy its thread locking or anti corrosion properties. One complication: the spoke threads must be clean before applying this compound.

Gently crimping the nipple (first experiment on loose nipples and spokes) or using adhesives such as Loctite can provide the needed stability. Try the "after assembly" or "wicking" Loctite's, such as 220 or 290 (almost too strong). Linseed oil on spoke threads or tubular rim cement leaking onto the nipple heads also limit wheel loosening but these methods are best remembered, not used in the 21st century..

Essential tool of a tension detective.

(3) Monitor tension
Spoke tension is one of the wheel’s most elusive properties. As a wheel supports various loads its spokes are constantly changing tension to absorb, distribute, transfer, and just plain endure the forces of riding. The base tension with which a wheel is built has a strong effect on its ultimate strength and longevity. Just remember, more is not better. Generally speaking, high (but not excessive) and uniform tension serves a wheel best. Now that tensiometers are commonplace, at least in bicycle shops, you can have your tensions measured. Don't leave such an important characteristic unsupervised.

On Pedal Finesse

Here is some advice we dispensed at Wheelsmith in Palo Alto, back in the day. Much of its content is courtesy of Brett Hansen whose coaching insights and good humor were a big part of that era:

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Pedaling smoothly requires finesse, not strength. Strength is the power by which you go fast, but going really fast takes strength coupled with pedal action finesse. Pedal action finesse must be learned. The idea is to apply an even pressure while pedaling smooth circles. To do this you need to go beyond the basic instinct of simply pushing down by doing specific exercises to improve efficiency. To begin training yourself towards smoother pedal action, you need to keep in mind:

(1) Saddle position
Get advice, but usually about 0.885 of total barefoot inseam is the correct distance from saddle surface to the center of the crank spindle. Saddle set back governs the perpendicular distance from behind the knee cap and directly through the pedal spindle with your crank aimed forward and your heel slightly raised. The ball of your foot should be over the pedal spindle unless you’re riding a recumbent bike.

(2) Shoe fit
Your shoes need to be snug, yet comfortable. Custom foot beds or orthotics will enhance the comfort and efficiency of this connection by supporting the natural arch of your foot in a neutral position.

(3) Pedal stroke
The ideal pedal stroke constantly changes the direction of force applied to the pedals, keeping it perpendicular to the crank arms as they rotate through the pedaling circle. This provides maximum power distribution and a higher wattage production, thus more speed. Pedal rotation finds a dead spot at the 12 o'clock position (viewed from the right side). Pedal action must carry the foot through. A little forward pressure at eleven o'clock helps to bring the pedal through the dead power area and inserts more mean wattage into the total output. Two, three and four o'clock are the power phase, easy to exert force and apply the weight of the legs or body. Start pulling back at four o'clock, continuing through until seven o'clock, with the same motion as scraping mud off the bottom of your shoe. At eight, nine and ten o'clock you are pulling up on the pedal while concentrating on pushing your knee forward. A forceful pull is ideal but can be uneven. Taking weight off the pedal as it rises is a big improvement. Then start pushing through the upper dead spot again.

(4) Spinning
You can develop the necessary muscle coordination to spin smoothly by practicing pedaling at 90-120 revolutions per minute. Consistently training this area of your cycling creates neuromuscular memory which is necessary for a productively powerful pedal action. Fast cadence allows you to save muscle strength while your legs and feet have the momentum to carry the pedals through the top of the pedal rotation.

(5) Climbing
Some riders are light and can spin the gears uphill or stand up on the pedals for long periods of time. But most riders stay seated on longer climbs which produces the most efficient power output. Positioned back on the saddle with hips stationary you should concentrate on applying even, constant pressure to the pedals. A light grip of the bars will help the upper body stay relaxed and save energy that can be applied to fully powered pedal action. A wide grip on the bars with your chest up and open aids breathing. You can stand up on the pedals for brief periods when the road is steeper or you want to accelerate. This is also good for relaxing the tension in your hips and below, which is caused by the constant intense exertion of long climbs.

Your motor needs to learn to pedal better.

(6) Descending
Keep your legs spinning to stay warm and to hasten removal of muscle waste products.

(7) Big gears
They are the opposite of spinning but similar to climbing. Slower motion requires constant pressure on the pedals with no movement from the hips up. This also makes it is easier to change the direction of the force. Push the pedals through the power phase, drop your heel as you go through the bottom of the rotation, pulling back on the pedals while rolling through the dead spot. Lift your heel as you pull up while pushing your knee forward as you push through the top dead spot.

(8) Improving your action
• Spinning small gears downhill develops finesse and supple muscles. Beyond a certain cadence you have to concentrate on just pulling up on the pedals.
• Pedaling with one leg in and one leg out of the pedals (especially on a stationary trainer) helps teach you to apply pressure all the way around the circle, down, back and up. It also helps with ankle position.
• Climb uphill while riding no-hands. This exercise requires a smooth, constant grade. With your hands behind your back and your upper body tilted forwards at 35-40° ride in a reasonably large gear. This teaches you to use only your legs for forward propulsion and also requires constant pressure throughout the rotation of the pedal action.
• Fixed gears give no rest from pedaling so you are forced to pedal in constant circles. It’s best to use flat to slightly undulating roads. This requires you to push a little uphill and spin a little more downhill. It also increases your power band so you become more efficient in a wider range of rpm's.
• Riding rollers will help you to pedal more smoothly because it takes concentration to stay upright during more intense efforts. After you become comfortable, increase the resistance of the rollers and up your intensity slowly until you reach time trial effort. Use the rollers without load for recovery, relaxing the muscles, helping them to transport lactic acid out of the legs.

(9) Remember
Smooth spinning action requires practice. Pushing down is the easy part. You must work on smooth, continuous effort. Choose appropriate gearing and cadence for the terrain and try to maintain an intense, fluid motion at the threshold of becoming erratic. You’ll soon be the envy of fellow riders.

The Spoke Machine is for Sale

I keep a small inventory of this fine machine in Seattle, along with spare parts. If you're interested or have questions, please send a message.

The machine is USD$3200 and shipping is $60 to North American destinations. I will pay shipping costs to elsewhere in the America's, Asia, or Europe. It comes complete, including a manual describing function, maintenance, and trouble shooting.

What are its features?

(1) Spoke cutting is ultra precise for both J-bend and straight pull spokes. The cutter is a two part shear. One part is a hardened, round tube that supports the spoke shaft. Across its face slides a sharp, bladed tool. The cut is accurate and perpendicular. This is the EXACT method used in actual spoke manufacturing.

(2) Spoke gauge is set in seconds by moving a toggle switch about 1cm. up or down.

(3) Thread depth can be micro controlled with fine thread adjusting screws. In this way, much more effective life can be squeezed out of threading dies.

(4) Threading is fast and easy. Combined with cutting to length, the Morizumi machine will support production rates of 400-450 spokes per hour. I agree that the Phil cutter can go somewhat faster, but the consistency and lack of jamming of our tool more than makes up.

(5) The machine does not accumulate debris. There are no areas that can become filled or spoiled by spoke cutting metal bits. Even so, it's easy to fully disassemble for inspection and cleaning. No tools are required.

(6) The threading dies are extremely long lived. These are the same fine, Japanese dies used to manufacture Wheelsmith spokes (in the past). They can be expected to last for more than 100,000 spokes. Light oil is recommended for threading, applied to the dies every 100 operations, or so.

Have you thought about the expense of modern spokes? How about CX-Ray? And how many different lengths are needed to support all the wheel brands and models out there? The wheel scene has never been so diverse and hundreds, literally, of lengths are needed. What better way to meet this challenge than with a spoke cutter? Shops throughout the World are storing millions of spokes that are the WRONG length. These 278's and 305's are going to take decades to sell. Now is the time to cut them to the length needed. You don't need spoke blanks to support this strategy. Spoke overstock is everywhere. Make a big shop or distributor an offer. In 2004, I was witness to several tons of DT spokes going to scrap at the liquidation auction of a Seattle area recumbant maker. That should never have happened.

Put your spoke inventory to work

So, first convince yourself that a spoke cutter will pay for itself in convenience and lowered inventory cost. Then decide to own the best, the Morizumi SCT machine.

Behold the Morizumi Spoke Machine

The Morizumi SCT (Spoke Cutting and Threading) machine is a marvel of simplicity and compactness. Originally designed at Asahi Spoke Company (partner of Wheelsmith for the first 20 years), now it's manufactured by a nearby machine shop founded by former Asahi engineers.

Not that portability is vital, this tool can be stowed in the space of an 8" cube. As a consequence, I've taken it to numerous events and clinics.

The disassembled SCT machine.

The working parts are beautifully made.

Spoke cutting and threading are separated into two distinct operations. For cutting, the spoke hangs over a precision rule while the other end is trimmed by the same shear we used in our factory.

The machine is changed from 15 gauge to 14 gauge by simply loosening the ball ended lever and moving the switch on the left up or down.

Pulling out the knurled pin, diassembles the threading lever linkage.

With pin removed, the moveable die holder can be lifted out of the machine.

Here is the die removed and easy to inspect and clean.

Homage to the Spoke Machine

The history of technology is sprinkled with seminal inventions. Some are actually useful devices, ends in themselves. Others are more so catalysts, enablers for developments to follow. The bicycle owes its existence to a number of clever 19th century ideas: the tensioned wheel, pneumatic tires, the roller chain, tubular steel, etc.

The last half of the 20th century witnessed a number of important improvements and additions to the bicycle. Advanced materials, suspension systems, aerodynamic improvements, and biomechanical refinements have added to the bicycle's efficiency and usefulness. Yet, one important device has single handedly made possible most of the trends we associate with modern cycling. And, astonishingly, it remains virtually unknown. I'm speaking of the Phil Wood Spoke Machine.

The Phil Spoke Machine.

When Phil began making his cartridge bearing hubs in Campbell, CA in the early 1970's, he struggled with one important issue: spokes. He, and a number of West Coast bicycle thinkers, were strangling on a scarcity of spoke lengths. Thankfully, Spence Wolf in Cupertino was a direct importer of French Robergel spokes, and he stocked them in a fifty lengths. Without a domestic spoke manufacturer, U.S. builders were entirely dependent on thin supply lines such as Spence.

Why was this so important? Steel spokes are a mechanical marvel, supporting enormous tensions while weighing mere grams a piece. There's one big catch: the length must be precise. You can't make a wheel properly with spokes that are 2mm too long or too short. In order to build something original, you need access to the exact length spoke. Good luck if the closest spoke manufacturer is 10,000 miles away. The only way to make a particular length, unless you happened to have it in stock, was to use the English Cyclo hand threader. This compact but crude little tool is perfect for making a spoke or two in a pinch for repairs. But it's useless for entire sets of spokes. The process is too slow and the output too uneven to support wheelbuilding creativity.

Well, what creativity am I referring to? The early '70's was a stage for many restless bicycle thinkers. Framebuilders experimented with new materials and geometries. Parts makers wrestled with wider gear ratio's and stronger brakes. Wheelbuilders were exploring new options as well. Tandem wheels were weak, so why not try larger spoke numbers in each wheel, like 48? Racing wheels needed aerodynamic improvement, so why not lower spoke numbers and bladed shapes? Off road riding beckoned, so why not new wheel diameters in lightweight materials? For each of these wheel directions, spoke availability was critical. Phil Wood, as a creative hub maker, saw this more clearly than anyone. His solution was a brilliant device that allowed spokes to be cut and threaded at rates and with precision that could support serious wheel development.

The Phil Wood Spoke Machine ignited an explosion of wheel development that hasn't subsided yet. It's doubtful we would be enjoying the diversity of today's bicycle scene without this critical tool. As the founder of Wheelsmith, I participated in the reinvention of the bicycle that gave us mountain, triathlon, tandem, portable, and women's bicycle revolutions. It's no exaggeration to say that these scenes were driven by their wheels. What is a mountain bike, after all, except a fat tire bike? Wheel options make possible bicycle innovation across the board. And wheel development depends on convenient access to precise spoke lengths.

Oddly enough, Europe and Asia still supported spoke manufacturers. So they had little incentive to create their version of the Phil tool. Yet, Phil's machine, owned by a thousand American shops and builders, enables a general level of wheel creativity that leads the rest of the World. Of course, companies like Mavic, Shimano, and Campagnolo all own Phil Machines. Their ambitious lines would be impossible without it.

The point of this article is not simply to applaud Phil for his prescience. I want also to bring attention to the usefulness of precision spoke cutting. As one of the biggest fans of the Phil tool, Asahi and I gave much thought to the process. We've made millions of spokes with automated tooling (under the Asahi and Wheelsmith brands). We've tried to automate a Phil type of machine, but it doesn't work. Why? In production, all the butting, blading, trimming, and threading operations take place before the elbow is made. Once spokes have heads and elbows, they become much more difficult to transport. Handling is hell, they become tangled with each other. A hand made, one at a time process, like Phil's, is the only practical way.

So where did 20 years of studying the Phil cutter bring us? We designed our own, making small improvements in every function. The resulting cutter and threader is the SCT (Spoke Cutting and Threading) Machine, built by Morizumi in Osaka. I'm proud to represent it to North America. It's part of a very special tradition begun by Phil in the '70's. Now we have two excellent spoke cutting tools, and the renaissance of wheel design and innovation has no excuse but to flourish.

The Asahi machine.

Of course, I'm badly biased and ready to tell you that the Morizumi SCT tool is superior in several significant details and made to the highest standards.

Wood Rims for Sale!

Wood was the exclusive material for racing rims for over 70 years. All Classics, Tours, Olympics, and Championships were contested on wood. If retro style posters, such as "Drinkers and Smokers," were colorized from black and white, one of the biggest shocks would be the wood rims.


I stock 3 models:

- Corsa (330g), 36H, 700C tubular (for sewup tires)

- Elegant (420g), 32H or 36H, 700C tubular (for sewup tires)

- Sport (560g) 32H, 700C clincher (for wired on tires)


Here is the Corsa model.

Another Corsa glimpse.

The Elegant rim.

Another Elegant view.

The Sport clincher.

A second Sport view.

A pair of Sports at work. This is my daily commuter, a Redline Conquest with disk brakes.

The prices include 3/4" nipples and washers. See our store for current pricing. The material is aged Slovenian beech from a special grove that has been harvested sparingly for rims over many generations. The workmanship is extraordinary. Construction consists of as many as five laminations, bonded with modern 2-part epoxy. The joinery is practically undetectable. The rims are finished in polyurethane lacquer.

Any brake pad works but, as wood won't absorb heat, the pads can melt. Once the rim is smeared with melted pad, brake effect is diminished. This is a crisis on a long, uninterrupted descent. In spite of the danger, this issue didn't stop riders from crossing the Alps for many decades. The rims suffer from braking with a lot of dirt and grit. The abrasive effect will tear up the wood quickly. Water, however, is no problem as long as the wheels can dry out slowly. Cork or leather pads are also good but I don't know a source at present. Pads designed for carbon rims, that are more temperature resistant, seem to work well on wood.

A sustained descent in wet, sandy, gritty conditions could deeply erode a wood rim. Conceivably, it could be destroyed in one long day. So, obviously, a different approach is required. Avoid such conditions and stop to remove grit from brake pads if you're caught. Riders of the past managed these conditions, so you can too.

If your wheels become very wet, do not worry. Wood and water are a good combination. Just make sure the rims have a chance to dry slowly, for example, in a dry temperate room.

To purchase Ghisallo rims, visit my eBay store.

Any further questions, send me a message.

How Tubular are Made and Maintained

This article, written by Spence Wolf, first appeared in AMERICAN CYCLING, June 1966 (pg. 19). Images by Wheel Fanatic.

Hand made tires are a necessity for the racing cyclist, and for other cyclists who want the utmost in response and easy pedaling. They are expensive, thin, and vulnerable to the atmosphere and to damage from the hazards of the road. However, their life can be extended considerably by proper care and maintenance.

Racing tubulars are made by winding a fine thread on a drum, much as an electrical coil would be wound. The thread is then coated with liquid latex. After the latex has “set” for a number of hours, the thread is held together by the latex and becomes a fabric. This fabric is cut off the drum on an approximate 45-degree angle and laid on a table with the latex side up, forming a long, narrow parallelogram. This parallelogram is trimmed to proper length and folded in half lengthwise and well rolled. Then the triangular ends are placed one on top the other and rolled, forming the “splice” and making the fabric into a band. If the splicing is properly done you cannot see where it is located. The further procedures necessary to completing the tire do not concern this article. What is of interest is that the fabric is not vulcanized, but is held together by the air-dried latex. Latex is readily dissolved by petroleum (and other) solvents and nothing containing these solvents (such as rubber cement, oil, gasoline, etc.) should be allowed to touch the fabric of the tire. Using gutta (rim cement) to hold the tire on the rim is all right because the tire’s rim tape protects the fabric of the tire from the gutta.

Here is André Dugast, circa 1992, with (right to left) raw fabric, trimmed casing pieces, stitched tires, and finished tires; ready to ride. All steps traditionally done by hand.

The outer surface of the sidewalls of road tubulars is coated at the factory but this coating is of course thin and does not take long to wear off, exposing threads to the atmosphere. Attempts to remedy this by applying shellac to the sidewalls are not satisfactory because the shellac is brittle and will flake off. To apply rubber cement is to invite disaster because it merely hastens the breakdown of the latex, causing the threads to separate. The best overall sidewall protection is natural latex.

To prepare the tubular for the latex, first inflate it on a wheel and wash it thoroughly with dishwashing detergent and water. Then rinse thoroughly with water.

When the tire is dry the sidewalls are ready for the latex. I have found that the best brush to apply latex is an acid brush (used in soldering) obtainable at most hardware stores. Wash the brush before using to remove any oil it may contain, and of course use the brush for no other purpose. Keep the tubular inflated until the latex is dry, which takes at least 24 hours.

Shake the latex well and dip the brush only into the “suds,” this will assure that you do not get too much latex on the brush. Therefore, you will be better able to apply a thin coat (which is all you want) to the sidewalls.

If the latex will not foam, add no more than one tablespoon of sudsy ammonia per quart of latex. If the latex is too thick it may be thinned with distilled water. Brush on the latex rapidly being sure not to brush it out too much.

After the latex has been applied allow the inflated tire, on the wheel, to remain in a warm room for 24 hours. Then dust the sidewalls with talcum powder to “kill” the stickiness, and the tire is ready for use.

Freshly stitched casings in the Dugast workshop, ready to inflate and receive treads.

Portions of fabric taken from old, high quality tubulars can be used for boots (internal reinforcements). All boots, repairs to the fabric, and the sticking down of the rim tape and tread strip should be done with latex. Solvent rubber cement should only be use for repairing the inner tube.


Wheel Fanatic note: I don’t guarantee the results you may have following these instructions. Spence Wolf spoke from experience, as he was one of the only Americans to seriously undertake tubular tire manufacture (in the early 1960’s). So, proceed at your own risk. Also, tubular tires today are made by a number of companies using different techniques. This article describes typical, historical methods and doesn’t apply to all brands and eras.

Important Tips about Tubular Tires

Tubular, or sewup, tires provide the ultimate ride for a modern road racing bicycle. Because the tire is sewn together around the tube considerable weight is saved in the tire’s construction -- no beads of sturdy wire or cord are needed to grip the rim, and in the rim -- simplified because the tire is bonded by cement. Its use is critical to the reliability and performance of the system. Over 100 grams are usually saved per wheel between equivalent tubulars and demountable clincher wheels.

Because the tubular wheel system predates our era of user-friendly, danger-free engineering there are numerous idiosyncrasies related to their use that you might not expect.
There is no adequate way to “teach” all the important practices and exceptions that one needs to fully utilize tubular tires. However, we wish to state some of the more basic and obvious do’s and don’ts. Just remember, only a lengthy and detailed “apprenticeship” to a practicing expert in a club or team setting will cover the many considerations you should know.
Few technical skills in cycling will bring you so close to the experiences of our forefathers than mastering tubular tires. And little else in equipment can so transform and invigorate your riding.

An inflated tubular grips the rim with a powerful contraction upon inflation but your security depends almost entirely on the integrity of the cement bond between tire and rim. Both the rim and tire must be absolutely clean before gluing so, if in doubt, use a strong soap with plenty of water to wash both. Let them dry thoroughly before the next step.

Pump some air, perhaps 5lbs, into the tire. The very first inflation of a latex-tubed tire should proceed very slowly. Otherwise there is a small risk the tube will become ruptured. Now mount it on your rim, beginning at the valve. The last little bit is a struggle, serving to remind you what lies ahead. Once mounted, fully inflate the tire and let it stretch for most of a day. When you are ready to glue, demount the stretched tire. It will now be much easier to mount a second time.

Make yourself a small bottle of lacquer thinner in which you can store an acid brush between tire gluing sessions. Put the pristine-clean wheel in a stand and run a bead of tire cement around the rim. Immediately after, use your acid brush, with a slight amount of the thinner, to spread the cement out across the entire concave surface of the rim. Step away and allow the cement to dry. Keep the wheel away from any unnecessary dust or smoke.

Now coat the tire base tape with cement. This is best done by putting enough air pressure in the tire to cause it to “roll over” on its side, exposing its base tape “belly” to the sky. Run a bead of cement around the tape following quickly with your brush. Stroke the cement into the base tape fabric covering the whole surface from edge to edge. This coat must also dry and only 15 minutes may be required in hot dry conditions.

Shortly before mounting the tire, add a second light coat to the rim but do not wait for it to dry. Let enough air out of the tire so it is round but soft. Carefully place the tire valve through the rim valve hole as the wheel stands on the ground before you. Now, with valve at the top, lean over the wheel grasping the tire to either side of the valve. Use your hands to place the coated base tape on the rim and your body weight to stretch the tire on each side of the valve, pulling it down.
By the time you reach the last difficult section of tire you should be directly opposite the valve with enough tire slack to easily roll the final section aboard. Put 60lbs into the tire and make minor adjustments to its position. Spin the wheel and admire your handiwork. It will be somewhere between one and five hours before the tire is safe to ride.

How will you know if you have done it correctly? Only by asking an experienced race mechanic to test the bond by hand. Basically, if you can demount a tire by hand without tools you do not have an adequate bond. That sounds crazy but the heat generated by braking, the side forces of cornering, and the uncertainties of adhesives mean you cannot trust anything less than a “total” bond. If you need to remove a tire use a dull pry bar, like a screwdriver, to very gently pry a section from the rim. Pass the lever completely under the tire and then force it carefully around the rim to break the rest of the bond. A round shaft screwdriver blade works best as it can be rotated as you force it around the wheel, separating the tire from the rim.

More tips
1. Do not use thinner to clean the sidewalls following a glue session. Chemicals can damage the casing. Old, dried cement can be picked off in a few days.
2. Wash your tread and sidewalls periodically with mild soap and a soft straw brush. Examine for cuts or abrasion.
3. Do not use preservatives like Armor All™, recoat the casing with liquid latex if it becomes dry and crusty.
4. Do not ride tires with broken cords or casing swelling. Damage must be repaired, usually that requires reinforcement from within.
5. Fill tread cuts with silicone rubber to prevent grit from entering.
6. Do not use brakes continuously on a bicycle regardless of tire/rim system because heat generated can be excessive. Heat can soften rim cement and/or damage or melt the brake pads. If you are heavy or forced to brake steadily, periodically pull off the road to let your rims cool before proceeding. Ignoring the heat is an invitation to tear off the valve (the tire rotates on the rim) or rolling the tire off the rim (a near-certain fall).
7. Since light, heat, or sharp folds can damage a tire, store your spares on rims in a cool, dark place when possible. A carry along spare should be wrapped in an opaque material and bound gently under the seat. Fear of dropping the tire inclines some to cinch a spare tightly but too tight and you may lose it to injury.
8. Since lightweight tubes lose air each day, do not let the bike stand on flat tires. Hang it up for storage.
9. To protect a delicate inner tubes, use non petroleum lubricant in your pumps (like mineral oil).
10. Don’t perform tubular repairs until you have been shown the proper method. You and your friends deserve safe, trouble free riding.
11. Ask questions, ask questions, ask questions. “Old timers” are eager to teach the lore of cycling.
12. The very best, comprehensive treatment of tubular gluing, both theory and practice, is Chip Howat’s research at the University of Kansas.

Nature's Composite

I wrote this piece for the February 1985 issue of BICYCLE GUIDE magazine, pg 16-17, 106. So please forgive a few details that are owed to its vintage. Also note, all the wood rim makers listed have ceased production except for Ghisallo.

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In our never-ending search for better materials, the current rage is the space-age group of substances known as composites. Composites consist of microscopic filaments, which are bonded by glue into dense layers sandwiched around lighter materials. Perhaps the best-known composite system is the surfboard, in which styrofoam is covered with a thin layer of fiberglass and polyester resin to create an immensely strong but light structure. Composites using carbon fibers are currently revolutionizing aeronautics, as well as sports equipment such as tennis racquets, skis, golf clubs, and fishing rods. And the wheels that contributed to our Olympic track team's success were also constructed with composite materials.

But as we consider these materials, it helps to remember nature's own composite - wood. Structurally, wood is a system of fibers bonded by resin and arranged in sandwich layers around a light pulp center. Nowhere has this natural composite make such a valuable and enduring contribution to the bicycle as in wood wheel rims. The age of wood rims began at the dawn of cycling and, despite major advances in steel rim design and manufacture, continued until shortly after World War II. Whether for Madison-style track racing or for the destructive cobbles of Paris-Roubaix, wood had an unchallenged 130-year reign as a rim material that combined lightness with strength. Famous names of rim manufacturers such as Fairbanks-Boston (Michigan), Sieber (Milan), Mirass (Spain), and American (Michigan), bring back the scenes of great cycling battles staged on the polished wooden surfaces of dimly lit velodromes. Nothing could match the liveliness of wood rims on these tracks. "The tires just sang on wood rims,” observes former six-day rider Vince Gatto of San Jose. Their popularity faded only with the arrival of high strength aluminum alloys. When the first aluminum rims appeared, they seemed "dead" or "flat" compared to wood, but what they lacked in feel they gained in reliability and safety: they stayed true longer and they didn't shatter upon impact.

Wood's unique ride is partly due to its flexibility. Although aluminum may be stronger, wood can usually bend farther without sustaining a permanent deformation. This is a boon when striking a pothole. Also, small bumps and high frequency road vibrations are better absorbed by wood. A quieter, smoother ride results.

Wood's flexibility is a virtue in a world of poorly paved roads, but a liability in terms of strength. The wheels of today require high tension to accomplish feats like six-speed spacing. But wood rims can't withstand the highest spoke tensions, so they are better suited for track, five-speed, or symmetrical wheels that have less dish. Low spoke tensions can be noisier as the spoke shafts rub against each other, especially at the outer cross. This clicking sound can be silenced by tying and soldering, which helps explain the popularity of this practice in the past.

Wood rims also account for the early popularity of butted spokes. Butted spokes are more elastic than straight gauge spokes; they give more and accommodate the wide tension variations inherent in wooden rims. Butted spokes provide more continuous support at low tension and ought to last longer because they don't snap from full slackness to full tension as often as straight gauge spokes.

Wood makes a great braking surface that provides especially good performance in the rain. Wood's heat insulating abilities places the burden of heat dissipation on the brake pad so it dries quickly in the wet. But the pad is also inclined to melt more readily; with heavy use, the rear brake can spit tiny bits of melted brake pad at the back of the rider's leg. Rapid stops will also cause a very faint burning of the wood's surface, a pleasant perfume for the following rider.

Hardwoods such as hickory, elm, ash, and maple are favorite rim materials that are easily shaped once softened by steam or other moisture. A single piece of wood can be bent into a hoop and connected to itself with an elaborate finger joint, or several laminations can be layered and glued. Waterproof glue is used to bond the laminations while the rim is held round under pressure. Once dry, the hoop is shaped with cutting tools and drilled for spokes. The laminated construction generally produces a stronger and more rigid rim because care is taken to offset the direction of the grain and joint of each successive layer.

To get the most from wood rims it is important to store them in dry conditions; if they become wet, allow them to dry slowly. Each year the rims can be lightly sanded and coated with a waterproofing lacquer.

At least five companies still manufacture wood tubular rims. Three Italian firms - Ghisallo and Berlazzi of Milan, and Sieber, now located in Switzerland - offer rims in many sizes and weights. However these rims require an extra-long, 3/4-inch nipple that is hard to find.

Wolber distributes a French rim made by Darrigade that features full sockets like modern aluminum rims, allowing the use of conventional nipples. This rim weighs just under 400 grams and is bonded with waterproof synthetic adhesives.

Finally, one of Japan's oldest parts distributors, Sanno Sports of Tokyo, can lead you to the Japanese manufacturers that, up until 25 years ago, made wood rims for the Keirin circuit. The rims are hard to find now, so inquire for availability.

Will wood rims stage a comeback? I think not, but their novelty and pleasant ride guarantees that they ought to be available for many years to come. Rims of the future, if not made of metal, will most likely be made of synthetics. But as in the design evolution of other vehicles such as boats and planes, it took a long time to discover materials superior to wood. And it is fitting indeed that the futuristic disc wheels of the Olympics are closer in construction to wood than the tensioned wire and metal hoops to which we have become accustomed.