Best wishes from Giovanni, Antonio, and Ugo - la famiglia di Ghisallo
Welcome to the Workshop
Friday, December 23, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Wheel Building Tip No. 14 - Set the Spoke Path
[Note: this is #14 of a series of 20]
You have undoubtedly noticed, and I mentioned in tip #4, that spokes do not exactly conform to their path once laced into a wheel. This is especially true at the hub. With higher quality hubs and spokes, the spoke elbow seems incomplete, resulting in a bowed shape before full tension is applied.
This bowing is, indeed, owed to incomplete elbows. Better spokes, those destined for high end builds, have short elbows and a more open angle like 105° rather than 90°. Better hubs also have smaller spoke hole diameter and thicker flanges. Consequently, the spoke can be laced through the hub but it doesn't fall down to the correct angle towards the rim. Why?
It turns out that bending a spoke after it has been laced maximizes contact with the hub and significantly increases fatigue life. Spokes that drop easily into holes and swing to correct angle without resistance end up with less support. At the same time, spokes on the inside of the non-drive rear hub flange do not need much elbow length or angle. You see, spoke positions in a pair of wheels vary as to exit angle.
For these non-drive side spokes, the incomplete elbow is a perfect fit. Were the elbow larger, it might become opened a bit as tension is applied, which reduces fatigue resistance. Since we're happy about these miss fits, because they extend spoke life, what technique is appropriate to make sure the fit is perfect?
Some builders favor hitting the spoke with a hammer, close to the elbow. I see three problems. One, there's no striking elbows on the flange inside surface and there's a chance some of those spokes could use straightening. Second, few hub makers design flanges to resist hammer blows. Spare those hubs! Third, hitting a wheel 16 or more times with a hammer is invitation for a miss. Leave hammers to carpenters.
The way to quickly and consistently bend incomplete elbows into perfect hub contact is a lever.
Better than a hammer.
Insert a round rod, like a big Phillips screwdriver blade, or handy piece of scrap steel, into the large triangle defined by the cross pattern. Angle your rod so it bends an outside and an inside elbow at the same time. It will be obvious which way to apply pressure.
Go around the wheel giving a forceful push to each elbow. If you push too hard, no worry. The spoke is not seriously harmed. Ease up. No need to struggle and unbend the over-corrected spoke. Do this setting procedure when the wheel is laced but still has low tension. Notice how loose the wheel becomes. The old school practice of letting tension do the elbow setting is inadequate because spoke metal needs an over correction, like any steel, so tension may appear to straighten the spoke but it still has a memory of its original shape. As you ride and tensions vary, your spoke will be returning to its shape, constant flexing, eventually leading to breakage.
I'm glad to know you won't be ignoring elbow shape and spoke path. These geometries are fundamental to wheel function and you need to be making optimal adjustments so your wheels are as perfect as they can be.
You have undoubtedly noticed, and I mentioned in tip #4, that spokes do not exactly conform to their path once laced into a wheel. This is especially true at the hub. With higher quality hubs and spokes, the spoke elbow seems incomplete, resulting in a bowed shape before full tension is applied.
This bowing is, indeed, owed to incomplete elbows. Better spokes, those destined for high end builds, have short elbows and a more open angle like 105° rather than 90°. Better hubs also have smaller spoke hole diameter and thicker flanges. Consequently, the spoke can be laced through the hub but it doesn't fall down to the correct angle towards the rim. Why?
It turns out that bending a spoke after it has been laced maximizes contact with the hub and significantly increases fatigue life. Spokes that drop easily into holes and swing to correct angle without resistance end up with less support. At the same time, spokes on the inside of the non-drive rear hub flange do not need much elbow length or angle. You see, spoke positions in a pair of wheels vary as to exit angle.
For these non-drive side spokes, the incomplete elbow is a perfect fit. Were the elbow larger, it might become opened a bit as tension is applied, which reduces fatigue resistance. Since we're happy about these miss fits, because they extend spoke life, what technique is appropriate to make sure the fit is perfect?
Some builders favor hitting the spoke with a hammer, close to the elbow. I see three problems. One, there's no striking elbows on the flange inside surface and there's a chance some of those spokes could use straightening. Second, few hub makers design flanges to resist hammer blows. Spare those hubs! Third, hitting a wheel 16 or more times with a hammer is invitation for a miss. Leave hammers to carpenters.
The way to quickly and consistently bend incomplete elbows into perfect hub contact is a lever.
Better than a hammer.Insert a round rod, like a big Phillips screwdriver blade, or handy piece of scrap steel, into the large triangle defined by the cross pattern. Angle your rod so it bends an outside and an inside elbow at the same time. It will be obvious which way to apply pressure.
Go around the wheel giving a forceful push to each elbow. If you push too hard, no worry. The spoke is not seriously harmed. Ease up. No need to struggle and unbend the over-corrected spoke. Do this setting procedure when the wheel is laced but still has low tension. Notice how loose the wheel becomes. The old school practice of letting tension do the elbow setting is inadequate because spoke metal needs an over correction, like any steel, so tension may appear to straighten the spoke but it still has a memory of its original shape. As you ride and tensions vary, your spoke will be returning to its shape, constant flexing, eventually leading to breakage.
I'm glad to know you won't be ignoring elbow shape and spoke path. These geometries are fundamental to wheel function and you need to be making optimal adjustments so your wheels are as perfect as they can be.
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Wheel Building Tip No. 13 - Feeling Lucky
[Note: this is #13 of a series of 20]
Any task with as many variables and intangibles as wheelbuilding is bound to arouse some superstition. Most of my career in bicycle wheels has been devoted to demystifying the structure and the building process. A demystified process has little place for superstition. And "luck," for all its elusive charm, is rarely the explanation for anything.
Luck?
When a wheel is quick to build, when the parts assemble with less than usual effort, when trueness seems to take care if itself…a builder feels lucky. "What a fortunate wheel this is!" is familiar to any builder. When I was early in my career, I generally gave credit to the rim. Great spokes, hub, truing stand, or background music surely help. But it always seemed the rim was to blame or credit for the general mood of the construction.
I know many builders who feel the same way. A great rim will build easily. A crummy one is an unwelcome chore. While that's true at the extremes, I've discovered it's rarely true in everyday work. The sooner you figure this out, the better your building.
I might have stayed a victim of the "rim makes the build" mentality were it not for extensive rim measurements I've undertaken on several occasions. Guess what? Modern rims are as straight or straighter than the wheels we aim to build with them. There's no question about this. Better rims benefit from many advances in extrusion and shaping technology. Many brake surfaces are CNC machined after hooping and joining. They've also become straighter to meet demands of automated wheel manufacturers.
My measurements show that unbuilt, aluminum rims are regularly within 1mm of concentric roundness. Diameter (of a 700C rim) is about 632mm, so that roundness is 1/6 of 1%. And the roundness is smooth so only tiny effort is needed to achieve a perfect wheel. The same case for flatness. Modern rims are within a fraction of a millimeter of perfection.
If rims are so incredibly straight to begin with, then why do they take any time to build? Really, it should only be a matter of connecting the spokes to have a perfect wheel. Here lies the key: it's actually our building procedure creating errors and problems, NOT THE RIM.
This means a calm, focused method free of self defeating errors will always result in a lucky (aka "fast") build. Where do these errors come from? I can think of two dependable sources:
(1) Shortcuts
Impatience and greed can convince you to take a shortcut. Making too-great corrections, using too much tension too early, pretending you're in greater control than you are, tolerating large distractions when your attention is required. All of these will force little errors and misjudgments into the build. Before the wheel is finished, you'll have to fix them all.
(2) Brain Farts
Sorry, I can't find a clinical description to encompass this idea. Basically, the human brain is prone to making the wrong decision when the data is simple. A common version is a 180° incorrectness. How often has an accident resulted from such a mistake? Obstacle on the left and we turn left. Time to apply the brake but foot hits the accelerator. Meant to tighten the nut but turned it counterclockwise. Thankfully, these are not common but if your focus is not strong, such errors will pollute your build.
No shortcuts or farts for these guys.
I've watched myself and other builders do this regularly. The rim is off to the right but your hands make the opposite correction. If you're using small adjustments, the damage may not be immediately apparent. The only cure to "brain farts" is experience and focus. Don't be distracted, pretend more is at stake. Pretend your wheel truing adjustments are being watched by a thousand students.
As a consequence of these two, shortcuts and brain mistakes, a builder is his own worst enemy. When a wheel is "lucky," the credit lies with you. You didn't make a bunch of mistakes to compound and slow the construction. When it's "unlucky," you can rarely blame the rim. Fast, successful building takes a calm and focused mind. Rim, spokes, and hub are ready to make a perfect wheel. Reminds me of children. Parents don't forge, against odds, healthy adults from their children. Kids are programmed to become responsible adults. Parents can screw it up. Don't get the blame backwards. Work together for a beautiful outcome.
Have you noticed this dynamic in your own building? I'm very curious to hear from you.
Any task with as many variables and intangibles as wheelbuilding is bound to arouse some superstition. Most of my career in bicycle wheels has been devoted to demystifying the structure and the building process. A demystified process has little place for superstition. And "luck," for all its elusive charm, is rarely the explanation for anything.
Luck?When a wheel is quick to build, when the parts assemble with less than usual effort, when trueness seems to take care if itself…a builder feels lucky. "What a fortunate wheel this is!" is familiar to any builder. When I was early in my career, I generally gave credit to the rim. Great spokes, hub, truing stand, or background music surely help. But it always seemed the rim was to blame or credit for the general mood of the construction.
I know many builders who feel the same way. A great rim will build easily. A crummy one is an unwelcome chore. While that's true at the extremes, I've discovered it's rarely true in everyday work. The sooner you figure this out, the better your building.
I might have stayed a victim of the "rim makes the build" mentality were it not for extensive rim measurements I've undertaken on several occasions. Guess what? Modern rims are as straight or straighter than the wheels we aim to build with them. There's no question about this. Better rims benefit from many advances in extrusion and shaping technology. Many brake surfaces are CNC machined after hooping and joining. They've also become straighter to meet demands of automated wheel manufacturers.
My measurements show that unbuilt, aluminum rims are regularly within 1mm of concentric roundness. Diameter (of a 700C rim) is about 632mm, so that roundness is 1/6 of 1%. And the roundness is smooth so only tiny effort is needed to achieve a perfect wheel. The same case for flatness. Modern rims are within a fraction of a millimeter of perfection.
If rims are so incredibly straight to begin with, then why do they take any time to build? Really, it should only be a matter of connecting the spokes to have a perfect wheel. Here lies the key: it's actually our building procedure creating errors and problems, NOT THE RIM.
This means a calm, focused method free of self defeating errors will always result in a lucky (aka "fast") build. Where do these errors come from? I can think of two dependable sources:
(1) Shortcuts
Impatience and greed can convince you to take a shortcut. Making too-great corrections, using too much tension too early, pretending you're in greater control than you are, tolerating large distractions when your attention is required. All of these will force little errors and misjudgments into the build. Before the wheel is finished, you'll have to fix them all.
(2) Brain Farts
Sorry, I can't find a clinical description to encompass this idea. Basically, the human brain is prone to making the wrong decision when the data is simple. A common version is a 180° incorrectness. How often has an accident resulted from such a mistake? Obstacle on the left and we turn left. Time to apply the brake but foot hits the accelerator. Meant to tighten the nut but turned it counterclockwise. Thankfully, these are not common but if your focus is not strong, such errors will pollute your build.
No shortcuts or farts for these guys.I've watched myself and other builders do this regularly. The rim is off to the right but your hands make the opposite correction. If you're using small adjustments, the damage may not be immediately apparent. The only cure to "brain farts" is experience and focus. Don't be distracted, pretend more is at stake. Pretend your wheel truing adjustments are being watched by a thousand students.
As a consequence of these two, shortcuts and brain mistakes, a builder is his own worst enemy. When a wheel is "lucky," the credit lies with you. You didn't make a bunch of mistakes to compound and slow the construction. When it's "unlucky," you can rarely blame the rim. Fast, successful building takes a calm and focused mind. Rim, spokes, and hub are ready to make a perfect wheel. Reminds me of children. Parents don't forge, against odds, healthy adults from their children. Kids are programmed to become responsible adults. Parents can screw it up. Don't get the blame backwards. Work together for a beautiful outcome.
Have you noticed this dynamic in your own building? I'm very curious to hear from you.
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Ghisallo T-Shirts
In time for holiday gifting or personal fashion, we've just received a small stock of Ghisallo T's. 110% cotton, Italian embroidery and screening, stylish green color.
On the plaza in Magreglio.
"Woods Made for Riding" perfectly captures the passion that embraces cycling, the historic and scenic Italian countryside, and the legendary ride of wood rims. Of course, shirts from Italy are not inexpensive, so we offer them just above our cost for pride and fun.
Wood rims are no secret!
We have S, M, L, XL, XXL sizes; running a bit (but not a whole size) smaller than USA standards. At $30, do you know a surer way to be wearing something authentic and unique?
From Italy with love.
Remember, also, classic Ghisallo warmup tops. We have all sizes. Ghisallo tops are Italian made, feature a luxurious, all cotton fleece body and robust tri-color cuffs and collars. Stylish silver embroidery on front and back make this top a true collectible. We're stocking five sizes that run one size smaller than US custom.
I'm 5' 11", wear a men's 42 suit and generally fit garments labeled "large." XL is an excellent close fit for me and XXL would be best over several clothing layers.. We've marked these well below a normal "retail" at $98. Quantities are limited.
Stylish, timeless.
On the plaza in Magreglio."Woods Made for Riding" perfectly captures the passion that embraces cycling, the historic and scenic Italian countryside, and the legendary ride of wood rims. Of course, shirts from Italy are not inexpensive, so we offer them just above our cost for pride and fun.
Wood rims are no secret!We have S, M, L, XL, XXL sizes; running a bit (but not a whole size) smaller than USA standards. At $30, do you know a surer way to be wearing something authentic and unique?
From Italy with love.Remember, also, classic Ghisallo warmup tops. We have all sizes. Ghisallo tops are Italian made, feature a luxurious, all cotton fleece body and robust tri-color cuffs and collars. Stylish silver embroidery on front and back make this top a true collectible. We're stocking five sizes that run one size smaller than US custom.
I'm 5' 11", wear a men's 42 suit and generally fit garments labeled "large." XL is an excellent close fit for me and XXL would be best over several clothing layers.. We've marked these well below a normal "retail" at $98. Quantities are limited.
Stylish, timeless.
Thursday, December 1, 2011
2011 Holiday Treats
Two exciting treats have arrived from Italy for the season and, truly, for all year round. First is a wall clock created by Giovanni from rims he made as a teenager during WWII at the d'Allesandro rim company in Milan. These 20" tubular rims bear d"Allesandro decals, have 24 holes, and make perfect clock frames!
A timeless time piece.
We have only found 80 such rims so that is the clock series. Each one is hand assembled with a very nice German Quartz movement, signed and numbered by Giovanni himself. It's a warm and beautiful timepiece that will bring you much pleasure in the years to come.
Signed and numbered. Just add battery.
As a special for the year end, we're offering them for $62, a very reasonable price for such rare hand work. A functional collectible.
Face detail.
The second item is a small number of keyrings fashioned from wood rim sections. I carry one every day. Better (and swifter) than a rabbit foot charm, these fobs are a perfect reminder of the golden age of cycling. Each is labeled with a branded firemark. Just $9.00 each.
Tiny charms.
We received very few of these items, so please treat yourself without delay!
Of course, best wishes for the season from the Cermenati and Hjertberg families!
A timeless time piece.We have only found 80 such rims so that is the clock series. Each one is hand assembled with a very nice German Quartz movement, signed and numbered by Giovanni himself. It's a warm and beautiful timepiece that will bring you much pleasure in the years to come.
Signed and numbered. Just add battery.As a special for the year end, we're offering them for $62, a very reasonable price for such rare hand work. A functional collectible.
Face detail.The second item is a small number of keyrings fashioned from wood rim sections. I carry one every day. Better (and swifter) than a rabbit foot charm, these fobs are a perfect reminder of the golden age of cycling. Each is labeled with a branded firemark. Just $9.00 each.
Tiny charms.We received very few of these items, so please treat yourself without delay!
Of course, best wishes for the season from the Cermenati and Hjertberg families!
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